September 9, 2010 • 7:12 pm 7
Risotto literally means “little rice” and is a method of cooking rice using stock, cheese and other ingredients. Risotto, as I know it, is a method of cooking that apparently began in Milan in Lombardia, followed by Piedmont. Read the rest of this entry »
Filed under: Masterclass, Signature Series, Alessandro Pavoni, chef, guest writer, Italian, recipe, risotto, Sydney
August 22, 2010 • 7:02 pm 4
The Free Range Cook comes to Australian shores this week. I really love the concept of this TV show. Home cooking, family, friends, fresh seasonal produce, simple, easy, tasty! All closely aligned to my heart (and stomach). Before the first episode airs this Saturday 28th August on ABC1, you can have a taste preview as Annabel Langbein has generously shared her Roast Pork recipe with Inside Cuisine. Or check out the YouTube preview of the show.
Filed under: at home with ..., Masterclass, ABC, Annabel Langbein, New Zealand, pork, recipe
February 14, 2010 • 5:29 pm 3
Sometimes the twist and turns that life presents can take you down an unexpected path. It’s just over 12 months now since I discovered twitter. 2 years ago, I wouldn’t have predicted the many wonderful people of like interests that I would meet online. I first met Kerry Pintado on twitter, and we’ve now become friends offline too. This recipe for Mila’s Tortilla is from Kerry, and is the dish she brought to the Australia Day party where we shared food and exchanged recipes.
Filed under: in my kitchen, Masterclass, eggs, potatoes, recipe, Spanish, vegetarian
February 14, 2010 • 1:31 am 1
My friends Georgie and Janos Horvath have cooked and served me traditional Hungarian Gulyas (Goulash) a couple of times now. We often share food, whether at home, or eating out for a meal. We even caught up for a meal in Paris while on separate holidays just over a year ago. Most recently they shared this dish with a larger group at the Australia Day recipe swap in my home. Here’s their recipe, just as they gave it to me.
Filed under: in my kitchen, Masterclass, beef, gulyas, Hungarian, paprika, recipe
February 7, 2010 • 8:26 pm 1
As I write this post, it’s raining. Sydney has just received the most rain overnight, that we’ve seen on one day, at least in the last two years. The sky is grey, the river is brown, and while it’s summer, there is definitely no sunshine. While there’s no sunshine outside right now, with the best of summer produce, summer is always available as sunshine on a plate.
Cooking in Sydney recently, Chef Reine Sammut gave us her rendition of summer sunshine. Here’s her recipe, then my rendition of cooking Aubergines a la Parmesan facon Crumble at home.
Filed under: food + travel, in my kitchen, Masterclass, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, French, Italian, Mediterranean, recipe, Reine Sammut, vegetarian
January 24, 2010 • 11:38 pm 2
There’s something delightful about receiving a parcel. It’s the child-like discovery process in the opening of the parcel that delights and enchants us.
This holds true also for food. Cooking in parchment paper, …… en papillote in French or al cartoccio in Italian, was one of the earliest cooking techniques that I experimented with as a child. Perhaps I was enchanted (then as now) with the hidden treasures of aromas and taste. When the best of the season’s ingredients are folded in a pouch (of parchment, bag or aluminium foil) and then baked, the flavour is captured within and released as the parcel is opened.
One of my most memorable parcels was Tuscan perfection at Cibreo in Florence and provides the perfect example of cooking with this technique. A parcel of aluminium foil arrives at the restaurant table. The simple package is opened to reveal flat wild mushrooms, which had been baked in a little oil, and tickled with a few fresh herbs. All the flavour, all the aromas were retained. Simple! Delicious!
To make a parcel lay the parchment (or foil) out flat. Grease with butter or oil. Place ingredients in the centre of the sheet (covering no more than 1/4 of the surface area). Add just a little wet ingredient (wine, stock, water, tomato concasse …) as a sauce if desired. Add the hero and accompaniments including herbs spice and seasonings. Fold the sides to close the parcel at the top and sides; roll to the edges to secure tightly.
Ideas and combinations for ingredients are limitless. Here are just a few basic ideas as a starting point:
Fish and seafood
En papilotte is a technique that is most suitable for fish and seafood. Fish is the most commonly used ingredient for this method of cooking. The simplest approach is to add slices of lemon, and a herb (such as dill), or perhaps even capers. In the photos (above and below) this whole fish is on a bed of onions, fennel tops with dill attached (dill, or aniseed as the fennel bulb and top was described at my greengrocer) lemon and seasoning in the cavity, lemon slices and salted capers on top. I didn’t wash the capers, and let the salt provide additional seasoning to the whole fish that I baked. Here are some other ideas.
From these bases, add other flavours, experiment, enjoy. Try a parcel with Asian flavour combinations too.
While parcels are traditionally baked in the oven, these ideas above and below, can also be adapted for the BBQ. Here I’ve served the fish for an easy weeknight dinner, with fennel (bulb braised in white wine) and baby eggplant (sauteed in extra virgin olive oil, cumin and chilli).
Vegetables
try also Chicken, Duck, Lamb, Pork, Beef and accompaniments … I believe the French also use this method for Rabbit … now that your getting the hang of this expand your repertoire to include Kangaroo, Goat, Venison, Pidgeon and more
Offal I’ve seen recipes in French cookbooks for en papillote for sheep’s tongue and have had success in lightly cooking livers with cognac and cream in a parcel
Fruit
I’ve read and seen others partly cook the ingredients before laying on the paper. I’ve never done this. I’ve only put my fresh raw ingredients in my treasure. I’m not sure if it’s because I want to utilise this method to its utmost, if it’s because I am lazy, or if it’s just because I’m in the habit and cooking this way (without first searing or sealing) since I was a child, but in any regard, each time my end results have been delicious.
Filed under: in my kitchen, Masterclass, en papilotte, fish, recipe, seafood
January 12, 2010 • 12:01 am 4
Didn’t sleep a wink last night. Just through sheer excitement! After meeting visiting Chef Nicolas Le Bec on Friday, I couldn’t wait until today’s masterclass, and then lunch. Monday 11 January 2010. It worries me sometimes that when you set such a high expectation, that the event itself is not going to live up to it. Nothing could have been further from the truth, and the first masterclass in the inaugral Cuisine NOW was a resounding success.
Le Bec had settled in to Sydney, recovered from his flight. I watched intently as I sat perched in my front row seat.
There were three dishes in the class and first up was Raviole de Crevettes et poireaux au jus de crapace (Prawn ravioli with a sauce from the shells).
All of the recipes in our folders read simply enough. It became clear during the class that there was a reason Chef Tony Bilson invited Le Bec as the future face of French cuisine. Each action came with detailed instructions about the produce (translated from French to English during the class). Le Bec’s attention to detail was incredible. His own style of cuisine is inimitable, solidly grounded in technique, yet inspired by his travels and based on the best available produce. The Le Saint Pierre d’Atlantique Poché, Jus de Cidre Fermier, Pomme Verte et Concombre Cru (Poached Atlantic Coast John Dory in Farmhouse Cider Jus with Green Apples and Crunch Cucumber) demonstrated this, with Le Bec’s addition of celery on the day. Similarly, after a visit to the Sydney Fish Market he was inspired to make a change to today’s lunch menu.
Chef Le Bec’s passion took root in his grandfather’s garden in Brittany. His art refined with great masters such as Jean Pierre Vigato, Alain Passard, Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Currently his Restaurant Nicolas Le Bec is awarded les 2 étoiles Michelin. Le Bec has a total of 3 restaurants in Lyon. He’s soon to open in Beijing. The Tour de France of styles and flavours: Paris, Montpellier, Megève, Lyon, Beaulieu sur Mer, le Lubéron. His world tour of culinary demonstrations: Italy, Norway, Mexico, Brazil, United States, Japan, Canada and now Australia.
La Mousse Légère au Chocolate Chaud
Plain Chocolate Mousse, Served HotServes 8
200g dark chocolate (61% cocoa – Valrhona)
80g butter
Melt the butter and chocolate together in a baine marie (35C).6 egg yolks
25g sugar
Blend egg yolks and sugar until foamed.10 egg whites
100g sugar
Whisk egg whites and sugar until in firm peaks like meringue.Fold the yolk mixture into the melted chocolate.
Fold the chocolate and yolk mixture into the whisked egg whites.
Fill two-thirds full with the mixture and bake in a preheated oven (220C) for 6 minutes.Pictured below: chocolate disks not mentioned in the recipe, but placed atop each cup of the hot chocolate mousse to melt into an unctuous topping. I’m not so sure these are ‘plain’.
There was a lengthy discussion at the class on chocolate, and Le Bec stressed that the quantity of chocolate for a recipe varies not only for the % of cocoa, but also for the brand of chocolate. This recipe is based on Valrhona.
Simon Thomsen was an entertaining Master of Ceremonies. Tony Bilson, and his wife Amanda, were elated to finally see four years of planning and work come to fruition.
What was best part of the day? It’s hard to pick just one. Just being there is right up in my hall of favourite life experiences. Perhaps, that now Nicolas had recovered from the flight, I found him not quiet and shy, but charming and cheeky! He teased a cameraman with beaten egg white directed in fun, at his nose. He certainly was calm, and focused, as well as knowledgable. The other highlight was the generous individual taste portions that were supplied after each demonstration dish.
At the end of the day, that’s where Nicolas made his mark with me: flavour.
For the third dish, the chocolate mousse (served hot) we retreated to the showroom of Signorelli Gastronomia for our tasting. As we stood to leave, the cheeky Nicolas Le Bec, pointed to the three cups of chocolate mousse in the oven, and declared that “the best ones are here but they’re for us”.
Filed under: festivals, Masterclass, Australia, chef, chocolate, cookery school, Cuisine NOW, French, Nicolas le Bec, recipe, restaurant
January 5, 2010 • 2:44 pm 1
Editor’s note: When I wanted to write something about tempering chocolate for this Masterclass, I thought it best if I left it to an expert. So I sought assistance from Rebecca Kerswell, Owner & Head Chocolatier, Coco Chocolate (UK and Australia). Here’s her guest article. And as your bonus, you’ve scored a recipe for the scrumptious delights, Coco Chocolate Chilli Figs.
To me the real art of the chocolatier is knowing how to temper chocolate by hand. Many in the industry these days rely on tempering machines, but there I nothing as skilled (or romantic!) as tempering chocolate on marble with palette knives. It inspires the Vivienne in all of us, even if we temper chocolate every day.
Required temperatures for tempering chocolate vary depending on the cocoa mass of the chocolate and on the most basic level if the chocolate is dark, milk or white. I will take dark as my example as it is what I will use for the recipe for the Coco Chilli Chocolate Figs.
Tempering is about two things, movement and heat. Tempering realigns the crystallisation structure of the chocolate changing it from soft and dull in appearance to shiny with a wonderful snap. In case you are reading hoping to temper chocolate from home, I will make it as easy as possible and with the use of items found in the home.
Firstly choose a good quality couverture chocolate (available at Coco of Kirribilli). You will need approximately three kilos to effectively hand temper. Place the chocolate into a microwavable bowl (preferably ceramic or glass) and begin to heat the chocolate. Chocolate needs to be treated carefully so not to form hot spots and burn. Therefore, heat in short 30-60 second bursts and stir between each heat. For dark you need to heat the chocolate to 45 degrees C. When this is reached the chocolate will be fluid.
On a marble slab or counter, splash the chocolate out and spread with your palette knives. In a circular motion work the chocolate out and in, on the marble slab. This is keeping the chocolate moving at all times and the marble is cooling the chocolate. Remember tempering is about movement and heat. Keep this motion until the chocolate is thicker at 28 degrees C.
Scoop the chocolate back into the bowl and stir. Raise the temperature quickly to 31 degrees C. This is now perfectly tempered chocolate ready to make bars or truffles or hot chocolate or as below: Chilli Chocolate Figs!
Coco Chilli Chocolate Figs
Like most wonderful treats, this recipe began its life as a wonderful mistake that our customers soon demanded back. Originally we dipped figs in plain chocolate and then when not concentrating in one kitchen session, the figs were dipped in the chilli chocolate made for our Coco chilli chocolate bars by mistake. The result was a hit!
Using 1000 grams of your tempered chocolate add one teaspoon of ground chilli and stir well.
Ensure you have removed any stalk from the dried figs
Dip a fig at a time into the chilli chocolate with a fork and place onto greaseproof paper
Top with a sprinkle of crushed chilli
Simple and divine – Enjoy!
Just in case you’re wondering – I first met (namesake) Rebecca at her splendid treasure trove Coco of Kirribilli. Just the best place to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate too. To my knowledge, Rebecca is the only person importing ‘single origin’ Valrhona into Australia. (editor)
Coco of Kirribilli
3a-9b Broughton St
(cnr with Bligh St)
Kirribilli (Sydney) NSW
Australia
+61 2 9922 4998
Filed under: eating out, Masterclass, Australia, chilli, chocolate, chocolate tempering, Rebecca Kerswell, Sydney, UK
December 28, 2009 • 9:02 pm 1
One of the delightful things about any time of year, is the natural bounty of the season. For me, the best of summer, is fruit, and the best of summer fruit is the berries. And, the best way to eat them is as they come, while still warm from the sun after picking. I think, the next best way to eat berries, is this classic British dish. It’s been a favourite dessert for a very long time. I think I first dabbled with summer pudding when I was a teenager, but later went on to make many in individual portions when cooking in restaurants.
While a lot of people are a bit put off with all the detailed weighing and measuring for some desserts, this is relaxed and easy to make, just like the season ought to be.
Some of my food friends will use fancy breads, brioche, cake or even croissants to make this dessert. I don’t agree. I prefer to make my summer pudding, from a good white bread, most usually a day or two old (as was the original intent of this dessert – waste not, want not – use up the old bread). White bread also serves as a better foil to the marvellous flavour of the berries, but I use what I have at hand and the one pictured, was made with an unsliced light grain sourdough.
Summer Pudding
750g (1lb) mixed berries
1 cup red wine (or water)
1/2 large loaf of breadMake this one, preferably two days before you want to turn it out, to give the berries time to soak into the bread.
Place mixed berries in a pan. You can use any combination of red berries that are seasonal and available: blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, red currants. In this mixture, I even used half a dozen cherries I had to hand. (I halved them and removed the stone). Make sure you have trimmed any stems from the fruit too.
Add the liquid to the pan, and melt by bringing to a slow simmer for about 4 minutes. Allow to cool.
Select a bowl (1 medium size bowls – or 6 individual ramekins). A bowl with slanting sides will allow for easier plating when the dessert is ready. I prefer one bowl as this gives less bread and more berries to the pudding.
Put about 1/2 cup of berry mixture to one side.Slice the bread removing crusts. Cut a circle of bread to fit the bottom of the bowl. Line the sides with bread. Don’t be too fussed about it being a perfect fit. (better to overlap a little too, than to leave a gap) When this is done, put about half the berry compote into the bread lining. (this should come up a little over half way). Add a layer of bread across the middle of the bowl. Then, repeat, adding the other half of the berry mix, and topping the whole lot with a covering of bread.
Cover with a suitably size plate (or saucer) then press down firmly with a weight (this can be a jar of rice, or pastry weights, or a can of something or other). Leave to sit in the refrigerator with the weights on top, at least overnight. (or two days is preferable). I give it a gentle push every now and then during the weighting (waiting) time.
When ready to serve, blend the extra 1/2 cup of berries with a splash of red wine, or water (in a food processor or blender) to make a coulis. (no need to sieve)
Run a bread and butter knife around the inside rim of the bowl, to loosen the pudding. Place the serving plate over the bowl, hold firmly and upturn. It may need a little shake, or a little more encouragement with the knife.
I use the extra berry coulis to smother the completed summer pudding once its on the serving plate. This helps to smooth out any gaps in colour. And, the summer pudding is ready to serve and eat!
If the berries are fresh and in the peak of season, I really don’t think this needs any sweetening (though you’ll see many recipes that automatically add sugar).
If you’re making summer puddings for a large number, it can be economical to supplement the fresh berries with frozen berries, and in that case you may want to add just a little sugar or honey, or even some raspberry jam. Do try and keep it a little bit tart though. (I think that is part of the appeal).
I like this as it stands, on its own. It’s also very good with clotted cream, or a little good quality vanilla icecream. Some fresh berries to garnish, don’t go astray either.
Filed under: in my kitchen, Masterclass, berries, British, dessert, recipe, seasonal, Summer Pudding, vegetarian
October 10, 2009 • 11:56 pm 2
I don’t know where to even start. This has been a day of passion and excitement in Sydney!
World Chef Showcase has brought together a degustation of chefs representing many countries and cuisines. When I planned my program, my first session of the day started with Chef Sergi Arola of Spain. Often described as the ’rockstar of Spain’s next generation of chefs’, I was truly delighted to meet Chef Arola before the session commenced. Later, we all learned that Chef Arola believes music and food both stir the soul. (He once had a band called Los Canguros which, appropriately means Kangaroos!)
During the session there were many references to the guest. We were told that his wife is manager of the restaurant, and each day, she reminds him that the chef and the kitchen are not all that there is. Chef Arola reminded us that no matter how wonderful the food, that if the service is poor, the dining experience will be ‘a disaster’.
He regaled that tapas is not a set of dishes but a way of life: eating, living, loving. Detail was integral. Passion was demonstrated in each component. The utmost attention and care was taking in cooking and assembly. Yet he was humble, and said cookery is not about molecular or non-molecular gastronomy, that physics has always played its part. And, more than just showing us the cookery techniques that are changing our past present and future, he spoke of produce as the foundation. He reinforced the importance of flavour from produce and reiterated his support of organic and sustainable farming. He is also an adamant supporter of protecting (the seafood species of) the oceans.
Patatas Bravas
Cut peeled potatoes into small cylinders (you can use an apple corer to achieve this) then make a small in each using a Parisienne cutter.
Bake covered in oil, confit style, in a low oven (110C) for 35 minutes. Fry in hot oil when ready to serve. Season generously with good salt.
Salsa Brava
Blanch peel and de-seed 500g vine-ripened tomatoes. Brown 2 – 3 cloves of garlic in oil, add 2 dried birds-eye chillies and 1/2 teaspoon of tomato paste. Season and cook to form a thick sauce. Pss through a fine sieve or tamis.
Ail-i-oli
Emulsify 2 egg yolks, 1 whole egg, 200ml sunflower oil, 200ml olive oil, 100ml garlic oil with salt, as making a mayonnaise.
To serve assemble and garnish with finely chopped parsley.
Chef Sergi Arola also presented Ajo Blanco with Cherry Caviar and Asparagus, and, Coca with Foie Gras and Capsicus, today at Session One Program 3 World Chef Showcase Sydney.
Filed under: festivals, Masterclass, Signature Series, Australia, chef, recipe, Sergi Arola, SIFF Sydney International Food Festival, Signature Series, Spain, Sydney, vegetarian
