Dom Perignon 2002 @ Universal restaurant

For a champagne lover like myself, there are few greater pleasures than tasting 6 Dom Pérignon vintages in one night. The hero of the evening was the release of the 2002 Dom Pérignon, considered one of the best vintages of this extraordinary wine for the last 100 years. Add to that the superb tasting menu designed by Chef Christine Manfield to showcase the luxurious qualities of the Dom Pérignon range and the evening at Universal restaurant Sydney was as close to heaven as you get.

Filed under: eating out, festivals, Champagne, chef, Christine Manfield, Dom Perignon, wine

Respect and Monsieur Roux

It was a month ago today that I met Michel Roux. Actually, that’s not quite true. I’d snapped a picture of him at the Cuisine NOW Gala Dinner on the previous Sunday. And, I’d eaten his course from the seven courses by seven chefs that cooked at that dinner. Why has it taken me a whole month to write this post you ask? In truth, I’ve written the post and re-written it and re-written it. How can I do justice to what was one of the most amazing experiences of my life (and I’m not just talking about the food …)

Filed under: a chat with ..., eating out, festivals, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, eggs, French, Michel Roux (snr), Michelin, Sydney

Electrolux Appetite for Excellence 2010 entries open

Electrolux Appetite for Excellence CALL FOR ENTRIES

Electrolux Young Chef, Electrolux Young Waiter, Electrolux Young Restaurateur

Applications are open for Electrolux Appetite for Excellence, the ultimate national competition for young hospitality professionals. This year, Australia’s stellar food industry awards welcome ex-pat and newly awarded two Michelin-starred wunderkind Brett Graham as guest of honour.  Brett is the executive chef/owner of London’s famous The Ledbury in fashionable Notting Hill and is currently serving as mentor to 2007 Young Chef QLD finalist Nicholas Hill.

Filed under: festivals, Appetite for Excellence, Australia, awards, chef, Electrolux

The chef, her camera and her blog

What did a visiting Provençal chef and a Sydney food writer talk about when they first met? Shoes of course!

And, it wasn’t just because we are both women. When I first met Chef Reine Sammut, it was not in a kitchen, but in a nightclub. She was wearing a great big grin and the sunny disposition for which she is renowned. She was also happily bending down … eyes behind her camera … taking photos of the floor …

It actually took a couple of meetings with Chef Reine Sammut to find out the whole story.

At 55, Reine has enormous energy and not only has a Michelin star restaurant gastronimique, a bistro and a guesthouse, but she is also a blogger. The night after the Sydney Cuisine NOW Gala dinner, I went home to bed. Reine, on the other hand, wrote her blog post.

Just before we met in Sydney, we’d already met on the Internet. Reine found this Inside Cuisine site, and my earlier post, on the Cuisine NOW festival (to which she was an invited guest chef). Unbeknownst to me, she posted this site on her twitter stream. I then found her, and, I read her blog.

I digress. Back to the shoes.

The next night, at the reception for the Gala Dinner, I discovered that Reine was fascinated by the Sydney disposition to wear thongs (flip flops) as footwear in the CBD, and about the ability of the Sydney woman to transform her footwear for the night. She even sent me over to ask Gala Dinner guest Nadine Brodie (previously unknown to both of us) if I could take a photo of her shoes (pictured below).

And, at Reine’s masterclass the hunt for shoes continued …

  

Shoes by Australian designer Leona Edmiston were captured (below) on the feet of Alexandra Lambert at the masterclass and lunch.

Me, well I was wearing Michael Kors‘ platform cork wedges … If you want to know about the food, rather than about the shoes, you can visit:

Cuisine NOW website for recipes and photos of the festival events or

Reine Sammut’s website Hôtel Auberge de Charme et Luxe en Luberon Provence

Filed under: a chat with ..., festivals, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, French, Reine Sammut, Sydney

7 Chefs 7 Wonders of the World

At the beginning of the evening, we were seduced by a spectacular vintage Moet. The whole of the evening fulfilled it’s promise. The definition of gala was upheld. Seven chefs, seven courses, seven Wonders of the Culinary World: Michel Roux (senior), Nicolas Le Bec, Reine Sammut, Tony Bilson, Philippe Mouchel, Cheong Liew and Tetsuya Wakuda.

‘In the past fifty years Australia has grown from an Anglo-oriented food culture into a country with some of the best restaurants and wines in the world.

My inspiration for Cuisine NOW was to bring together a collection of chefs whose careers represent a narrative of the changes in contemporary cuisine over the last 30 years. Cuisine NOW is a celebration of these artist chefs who have helped shaped contemporary gastronomy in Australia….’

- Tony Bilson

     

Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage, 2000, from magnum

MICHEL ROUX, THE WATERSIDE INN, BRAY, U.K.
HUITRES PACIFIQUE SUR UN MIROIR DE GELEE DE CONCOMBRE AU GINGEMBRE
(Pacific Oysters on a Mirror of Cucumber and Ginger Jelly)
Domaine Chandon, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009

PHILIPPE MOUCHEL, BRASSERIE MOUCHEL, MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
PARMESAN CUSTARD, SLOW POACHED EGG, CHICKEN CONSOMME
Domaine Chandon, Barrel Selection Chardonnay, 2006

REINE SAMMUT, AUBERGE LA FENIERE, LOURMARIN, FRANCE
KINGFISH A LA PEAU CROUSTILLANTE, MIREPOIX DE LEGUMES, COMPOTE DE FENOUIL ET VINAIGRETTE A L’HUILE D’OLIVE DE PROVENCE
(Kingfish with Crispy Skin, Mirepoix of Vegetables, Fennel Compote and Provencale Olive Oil Vinaigrette)
Chateau D’Esclans, ‘Whispering Angel’, Provence, France, 2008, from magnum

NICOLAS LE BE, RESTAURANT NICOLAS LE BEC, LYON, FRANCE
LANGOUSTINE AU ZESTE DE CITRON JAUNE, CREME D’ECHALOTE AU BEAUJOLAIS
(Scampi with Lemon Zests and Beaujolais Echalote Cream)
Chiroubles, Grand Cru, Georges Duboeuf, 2008

CHEONG LIEW, ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA
BOSTON BAY ABALONE, DUCK BREAST, ABALONE SAUCE, GARLIC ROYALE, OYSTER BROCCOLINI
Domaine Chandon, Pinot Noir 2008

TONY BILSON, BILSON’S RESTAURANT, SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
CARPACCIO OF VENISON
Domaine Chandon, Barrel Selection Shiraz, 2005

TETSUYA WAKUDA, TETSUYA’S RESTAURANT, SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
SWEET PEACH WITH PEACH SORBET
SALTED SABLE WITH LEATHERWOOD HONEY CREAM
Domaine Chandon, Cuvee Riche, N.V.

  

This teased and taunted. I’m one whose usual preference is for my oysters natural, naked, nude. This extraordinarily light mirror was just that, as described, and reflected a pool of delicate flavour that quite remarkably enhanced the oyster. Pure genius! to which I humbly courtsey and bow down. Like the champagne, this was the perfect introduction to the dinner, and paved the way for the delights that were to come.

 

For a second time, there were gasps of delight from my right. I was less vocal in my lip smacking applause, but nonetheless enthusiastic. The pleasure was internalised, and from the tip of my tongue, to the depths of my belly, this was an ultimate pleasure. I went behind the scenes after dinner and told Philippe Michel this, or rather, how much I had very much enjoyed his egg dish. Soft unctuous egg, savoury custard and consomme. My three favourite foods: combined in one dish. How could this have not been heaven, and if hard pressed, I would say it nudged ahead of a field of brilliance as my favourite dish.

 

Her food is described as sunshine on a plate. It’s true and you can see the joy on her face, and the joy in the dish. In the days surrounding this dinner, I’ve enjoyed more of Chef Reine Sammut’s company. Her exuberance plates to simple, layered care and detail, freshness and vibrancy, lightness and smiles.

 

Again I surrendered, to the divine grace that is the food of Nicolas Le Bec. These are only words. Rich, deep, satisfying, sauce, slurped, scooped by the shell, does not describe my satisfaction. This is not my first taste of Le Bec. Every dish has impressed. Again, he creates what is close to perfection. Offsetting each component, contrasts in taste and texture. Citrus cuts the luxury but does not dominate. The langoustine retained centre stage.

 

And I was captivated. Cheong Liew is the master of combining many flavours. Spiced undertones of complexity supported moist succulent flesh. Again we were presented with two of my favourites: duck and abalone – for a marriage made in heaven. Each individual component was a shining star. Yet, still, together the components were more than the radiance of the individuals.

 

Like our bow-tied host, the godfather of Australian Cuisine himself, this dish was refined and elegant. Continuing on the bell curve, the final accent of full flavour, the perfection of produce spoke for itself.

 

The rightful place of the peach was returned in this dish of ultimate simplicity and freshness. It sang. This picture is my neighbour’s plate, as he broke into the juicy sweetness. Summer captured in a spoon! The flavours to carry home with you on a balmy Sydney evening.

    

MC Simon Thomsen did a stellar job steering the evening. And, he related, there’ll be more photos and information on this year’s dinner, including recipes from the chefs, as well as updates on next year’s events on the Cuisine NOW website.

Filed under: eating out, festivals, Australia, chef, Cheong Liew, Cuisine NOW, French, Michel Roux (snr), Nicolas le Bec, Philippe Mouchel, Reine Sammut, Sydney, Tetsuya Wakuda, Tony Bilson

Travel: Feria de Cali

Culture, fantastic food, and beautiful women are what you will find at the Feria de Cali. Each year, between Christmas and New Year, Cali has a festival, the Feria de Cali, where locals mingle with tourists to experience one of the biggest parties in Colombia. Those few days are filled with markets, parades, pageants, bull-fights and concerts; one of the most interesting for me is the gastronomic festival.

Filed under: festivals, food + travel, Colombia, guest writer, South America, travel

150% Red Tomato – Chef Nicolas Le Bec

Not long into lunch, Simon Thomsen our Master of Ceremonies renamed the Amuse Bouche 150% Red Tomato. I concur. Chef Nicolas Le Bec is applauded for his individual style and innovation, and has been, since his 30th birthday recognised by the award of first one, then two Michelin stars. From me, Nicolas Le Bec receives a standing ovation (I was very tempted to do this at the lunch) for the epitome of culinary elegance with the most superb intensity yet balance of flavour. Each flavour in each dish was rounded perfection. Each flavour in each dish was balanced. Flavour was pitched not only across the menu, but for those who had attended the previous masterclass, these dishes were new tastes again, and balance slid on from the tasting dishes of the cookery demonstration.

LE 100% TOMATE ROUGE CREME GLACEE A LA MOUTARDE JAUNE DE DIJON
100% Red Tomato with Iced Yellow Mustard (Sorbet)

If only a photograph could capture the taste (and the internet share that taste with you …)

The colour red was vibrant as was the flavour. The richest, smoothest, tomato coulis I’ve encountered in a lifetime of serious eating. Words could not express the enthusiasm I have for this dish, and our first mouthful of heaven at the Nicolas Le Bec (Cuisine NOW) lunch at Doltone House Sydney Australia.

By contrast, the Iced Yello Mustard Sorbet had spike, heat, depth and complexity and while this was the literal focal point on the plate, with flavours front middle and back, this superb sensation, created the foil for the perfection, the smooth richness of 150% Red Tomato.

***

LE HARENG MATJES ET LE SAUMON MI-CUIT FUME RAVIGOTE D’OIGNONS ROUGES ET POMMES DE TERRES GRENAILLES TIEDES

Matjes Herring and Smoked Salmon, Red Onions Ravigote and warm Grenaille Potatoes

This dish was for me a showcase of Le Bec’s understanding of produce. I’ve a long history with fish and in particular smoked salmon. When done well it’s a favourite. When prepared poorly, it my ultimate disaster. This dish was a star! The fresh horseradish cream was silky smooth in texture and taste. Bravo Nicolas! All of the classical accompaniments came together with a little twist in a dish that I’d be happy to eat any day any time anywhere.  Proportions of each component made this dish, also, more than 100% in my book.

And, while on the Le Bec regard for produce: the herring, on the day, from Chef’s trip to the fishmarkets, had been replaced with the enthusiasm he showed for our local tuna.

“Good food” he tells us ”is about respecting the environment. Great chefs respect produce, and therefore respect the environment”.

***

LES FEUILLES DE ROMAINE ROULEES A L’ITALIENNE CREME D’ARTICHAUTS AU JUS DE BEUE OLIVES NOIRES ET ANCHOIS

Italian Style Cos Lettuce Leaf Rolls, Cream of Artichoke wiht Beef Jus, Black Olive and Anchovies

The vegetable course was my hero in a field of stars. Smoky artichoke cream was (we believe from discussion at the table) enriched on the day with eggplant, and offset with the clear translucency of beef jus. Just enough accents to complete this dish, the delightful roll. Contrasts of flavour, texture and colour yet again created balance! Mopping has been encouraged, and plate licking previously avoided, though today, I came close to being tempted.

***

FILET DU BOEUF FUME A LA ROYALE

Terrine of Smoked Beef a la Royale

A theatrical performance of aroma raised the curtain for the next course. Could I have predicted filet du boeuf as the centre of the lunch, after Nicolas Le Bec announced in his interview last Friday, that very good quality beef and potatoes would be his choice for last meal? Perhaps? Could I have predicted an erudite dish based on a Japanese style smoking method? Not likely. Perhaps Nicolas gave a nod (to my favourite en papillote) and to the use of foil when he described this cookery method in his masterclass.  Not only was foil used ‘en papillote’, but the strung and tied beef fillet was wrapped in a (what was that) leaf for the smoking.

 

That’s the plated dish top of the page above. And, that’s the finished dish, plates licked clean, below. The enthusiasm for this act is portrayed by my companions in cutlery (or lack thereof), including the Queen of Caftans, Australian fashion designer, Camilla Franks. The sauce was rich velvet and tapestry. All at our table engaged in mopping up every mouthful.

 

From the foundations of another, ‘apparently classic’ combination, this humble chef who never sought to get a Michelin star, and isn’t looking for another, has created a masterpiece. And, with the use of the Japanese smoking technique, Le Bec has again, raised himself above elegant classicism by painting with his own brush.

His food, is lighter, fresher than his French and particularly Lyonnaise background and draws on his travels, and a profound regard for produce. Cuisine NOW host, Chef Tony Bilson foresees “cultural interchange, big change, with gastronomy” ahead of us ”and you’ll see it coming through with wine” too he states.

The theatre continued … to herald the entrance to the dining room of the invited Guest Chef. His food is “cooking without barriers” and is not the cooking of France, but “the cooking of Le Bec“. We’d watched him cook and plate each dish by video link up with the kitchen. Now we had time to spend with him, to hear his story, to ask some questions …

Another thing that impressed, was Le Bec’s courage. Bilson told us that in a city steeped in tradition (and richer fattier food) Le Bec did not ask permission of ‘The Pope’ (Paul Bocuse) as tradition demanded of him when he opened his own restaurant. His courage continues in paving a new road beyond the richer fattier heavier Lyonnaise tradition.

***

SELECTION DE FROMAGES – Selection of cheeses

 

After cheese … we were regaled with the apple!

***

LA POMME CONFITE AU SIROP LEGER D’ORGEAT CREME GLACEE AU LAIT D’AMANDES

Apple Confit Light Orgeat Syrup, Almond Milk Ice Cream

 

I considered this the perfect counterpoint. As an earlier dessert, we had indulged in the chocolate mousse served hot, to close the masterclass. Here again, a classic, a classic dessert, taken, turned, twisted into Le Bec.

As a fan, of flowers, nuts, essences, oils, the parameters of this apple were a fairytale to me. Some others, to be honest were not so sure. I’ve always found though, that the almond is not for everyone. And, the same can be said of the rose. We were at first taste, undecided of the components. After discussion, collaboration, we got there. I admit, to my knowledge, I’d not previously encountered Orgeat. Food writer and reviewer, Simon Thomsen ate at the same table. He and I debated the syrup. The rose was there, but we considered the syrup for sometime before, and (blushingly I admit), we googled on the iPhone. Personally, I enjoyed the discovery as well as the dish. Orgeat is my new companion.

 This was the first lunch, from the first invited Guest Chef at the inaugral Cuisine NOW.

“These two weeks of events for Cuisine NOW is but the first step. Plans for Cuisine NOW 2011 are already under way and invitations have been extended to another group of chef friends from around the world to share their love of food and art with you” writes Tony Bilson.

Before then, I’ve got another couple of events booked this year, so I’ll have more to share on the 2010 events soon …  Bon appetite!

Filed under: eating out, festivals, Australia, beef, cheese, chef, Cuisine NOW, fish, French, Nicolas le Bec, Sydney, tomato, Tony Bilson

La Mousse Légère au Chocolate Chaud from Nicolas Le Bec

Didn’t sleep a wink last night. Just through sheer excitement! After meeting visiting Chef Nicolas Le Bec on Friday, I couldn’t wait until today’s masterclass, and then lunch. Monday 11 January 2010. It worries me sometimes that when you set such a high expectation, that the event itself is not going to live up to it. Nothing could have been further from the truth, and the first masterclass in the inaugral Cuisine NOW was a resounding success.

Le Bec had settled in to Sydney, recovered from his flight. I watched intently as I sat perched in my front row seat.

There were three dishes in the class and first up was Raviole de Crevettes et poireaux au jus de crapace (Prawn ravioli with a sauce from the shells).

  

All of the recipes in our folders read simply enough. It became clear during the class that there was a reason Chef Tony Bilson invited Le Bec as the future face of French cuisine. Each action came with detailed instructions about the produce (translated from French to English during the class). Le Bec’s attention to detail was incredible. His own style of cuisine is inimitable, solidly grounded in technique, yet inspired by his travels and based on the best available produce. The Le Saint Pierre d’Atlantique Poché, Jus de Cidre Fermier, Pomme Verte et Concombre Cru (Poached Atlantic Coast John Dory in Farmhouse Cider Jus with Green Apples and Crunch Cucumber) demonstrated this, with Le Bec’s addition of celery on the day. Similarly, after a visit to the Sydney Fish Market he was inspired to make a change to today’s lunch menu.

  

Chef Le Bec’s passion took root in his grandfather’s garden in Brittany. His art refined with great masters such as Jean Pierre Vigato, Alain Passard, Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Currently his Restaurant Nicolas Le Bec is awarded les 2 étoiles Michelin.  Le Bec has a total of 3 restaurants in Lyon. He’s soon to open in Beijing. The Tour de France of styles and flavours: Paris, Montpellier, Megève, Lyon, Beaulieu sur Mer, le Lubéron. His world tour of culinary demonstrations: Italy, Norway, Mexico, Brazil, United States, Japan, Canada and now Australia.

  

La Mousse Légère au Chocolate Chaud
Plain Chocolate Mousse, Served Hot

Serves 8

200g dark chocolate (61% cocoa – Valrhona)
80g butter
Melt the butter and chocolate together in a baine marie (35C).

6 egg yolks
25g sugar
Blend egg yolks and sugar until foamed.

10 egg whites
100g sugar
Whisk egg whites and sugar until in firm peaks like meringue.

Fold the yolk mixture into the melted chocolate.
Fold the chocolate and yolk mixture into the whisked egg whites.
Fill two-thirds full with the mixture and bake in a preheated oven (220C) for 6 minutes.

Pictured below: chocolate disks not mentioned in the recipe, but placed atop each cup of the hot chocolate mousse to melt into an unctuous topping. I’m not so sure these are ‘plain’.

There was a lengthy discussion at the class on chocolate, and Le Bec stressed that the quantity of chocolate for a recipe varies not only for the % of cocoa, but also for the brand of chocolate. This recipe is based on Valrhona.

  

Simon Thomsen was an entertaining Master of Ceremonies. Tony Bilson, and his wife Amanda, were elated to finally see four years of planning and work come to fruition.

What was best part of the day? It’s hard to pick just one. Just being there is right up in my hall of favourite life experiences. Perhaps, that now Nicolas had recovered from the flight, I found him not quiet and shy, but charming and cheeky! He teased a cameraman with beaten egg white directed in fun, at his nose. He certainly was calm, and focused, as well as knowledgable. The other highlight was the generous individual taste portions that were supplied after each demonstration dish.

At the end of the day, that’s where Nicolas made his mark with me: flavour.

For the third dish, the chocolate mousse (served hot) we retreated to the showroom of Signorelli Gastronomia for our tasting. As we stood to leave, the cheeky Nicolas Le Bec, pointed to the three cups of chocolate mousse in the oven, and declared that “the best ones are here but they’re for us”.

Cuisine NOW website

Nicolas Le Bec website

Filed under: festivals, Masterclass, Australia, chef, chocolate, cookery school, Cuisine NOW, French, Nicolas le Bec, recipe, restaurant

a chat with Nicolas Le Bec

Do you ever wake up in the morning and want to just pinch your cheek? I knew I’d had one fantastic day on Friday when I was still pinching my cheek at the end of the day.  On Friday, I went behind the scenes of Cuisine NOW at Bilson’s restaurant Sydney, and met with visiting French Chef Nicolas Le Bec. The garnish on the plate was having a chance to talk with the bow-tied hero of Australian cuisine, the talented, creative and innovative Chef Tony Bilson.

It was so exciting to have spent time with Chef Le Bec before this Monday’s ‘Chef’s in the City’ masterclass and lunch. Nicolas Le Bec will also be Guest Chef at Bilson’s Restaurant, Radisson Plaza Hotel, Sydney from 12th to 16th January and will cook one of the seven courses at the Gala Dinner with all the seven chefs: Nicolas Le Bec, Michel Roux (Snr), Reine Sammut, Tony Bilson, Tetsuya Wakuda, Cheong Liew, Philippe Michel (and with canapes by Sean Connelly).

Bilson invited Le Bec to the festival to represent the face of the future in France. Bilson thinks its interesting to see those changes.

I’d googled Le Bec before the meeting and found a description of him as“The Magic Spoon”. He laughed when I told him. He hadn’t heard that before (and demonstrated ‘air’ whisking to Tony Bilson). What a moment!

Le Bec doesn’t use the word fusion when referring to cuisine. “The word fusion is difficult because there are many roots that are incorporated” in his cuisine. His greatest influence is travelling and he incorporates the influences into his cookery, but it’s definitely not fusion he says. His cooking concentrates on the quality of the produce, but not just regional. He said that molecular gastronomy in the hands of great chefs like Ferran Adria can be great art, but not in the hands of lesser chefs.

And what would he choose for his last meal? Really good quality beef and potatoes.

How did I find Nicolas? Quiet, polite, calm, perhaps a little bit shy, or was that a little bit jetlagged. It was a great privilege to be invited to Bilson’s restaurant as Nicolas arrived in Australia and, after they made an airport run to pick up his Sous Chef, started preparations for the Cuisine NOW festival dinners. His affinity with the kitchen was apparent. His eyes lit up and his step lightened as he donned his chef’s jacket and entered his workplace, the kitchen.

 

Spending time at the restaurant, also gave me more insight into Chef Tony Bilson’s profound wealth of knowledge and only deepened my respect and admiration for him. It’s just one more sleep until the first Cuisine NOW event, and the masterclass with Chef Nicolas Le Bec. I wonder what tomorrow has in store …

Filed under: a chat with ..., festivals, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, French, Nicolas le Bec, Sydney, Tony Bilson

Provenance Victoria

The noun ‘provenance’ defines the origin or source, from the French ‘to come from’, and so, when Michael Ryan of Provenance Restaurant and Luxury Suites Beechworth Victoria, was guest chef recently in Sydney, he well represented his state, and bringing Victoria to Sydney for the launch of Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2010.

But before we get onto the fabulous food of Michael Ryan, let me tell you about the first taste of the day. One of the honoured guests at the lunch was food hero Stephanie Alexander who had also travelled from Victoria. The team at Omerta had created a delicate and entrancing whisper Lemon Verbena Breeze in her honour, and to whet our appetites.

The Sydney Media launch for the festival, was a well orchestrated as well as delicious lunch with a range of passionate portrayals by guest speakers about the taste of things to come in Melbourne March 2010. I’m not sure it was planned, but I have an inkling it might have been, that the very exuberant Jill Dupleix matched her green (coloured) personal fashion statement to the green string bags that were given out at the end of the lunch. Another take-home that was very fitting to the launch and the theme of the festival was an heirloom tomato plant from The Digger’s Club: Wapsipinicon Peach Tomato.

Every dish showcased the produce. Omerta resounded with pleasurable groans. The room announced their favourite to be a spectacular clear Parmesan Consomme. Michael Ryan humbly provided details that he’d used ice filtration for clarification. For me it would be hard to highlight one item or one dish to stand above the others. All touched my tastebuds, tummy and heart with joyful delight. I was enchanted to see an old favourite of mine, Pickled Watermelon Rind provide a support act. Using all of the animal has been a rediscovered pleasure, but it’s not just a contemporary idea and this harks back to when we also used (and preserved) all of our fruit and vegetable bounty too. Great to see (and taste) this preserving treasure (as the second use of a rind) on the menu.

Many of you know that I like my smoked salmon (when it’s the good stuff). With all of the inferior product that is available, I was really elated to enjoy Tom Cooper’s fantastic artisinal product on this menu.

Great meal Michael, thank you! Applause for your thoughtful and intelligent menu and craftmanship, and for the team at Omerta for the support in executing this marvellous lunch.

 Confit Baby Artichokes, Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella, Tomato Butter, Pangrattato

2009 TAHBILK MARSANNE

Oxley Zucchini Salad, Tom Cooper’s Smoked Salmon, Parmesan Consomme, Milawa Goat’s Curd, Capers, Borage Flowers

2009 TAHBILK VIOGNIER

Brined Great Valley Quail, Watermelon, Candied Olives, Pickled Watermelon Rind, Watermelon Sauce, Gapsted Walnuts, Tangerine Agrumato

2008 OMERTA FROM A FARR PINOT NOIR

Berkshire Pork Jowls, Baked in Hay, Grains, Broadbeans, Peas, Mint, Crackling, Raw Chioggie and Burpee’s Golden Beetroot, Mt Buffalo Hazelnut Praline, Vinegar

(Beetroot grown and harvested by the Digger’s Club, Mornington Peninsula)

2006 SCOTCHMANS HILL CORNELIUS SYRAH

Many thanks to fellow guest at the launch, Melissa Leong @fooderati for taking these photos so I could sit back and enjoy my lunch.

Filed under: eating out, festivals, Australia, beetroot, Berkshire pork, food festival, Michael Ryan, Omerta, Provenance, restaurant, Tom Cooper's Smoked Salmon, Victoria