a chat with Louise Tamayo

Louise Tamayo is one of my favourite Sydney waiters so I was excited for her when recently she won 2010 Appetite for Excellence Young Waiter of the Year. Here, Louise takes time out with Inside Cuisine to answer a few questions.

Louise, during the judging for Appetite for Excellence Young Waiter of the Year, you went on a 5 day Hunt + Gather tour of NSW. What was your favourite part of the trip?

Filed under: a chat with ..., 2010 Young Waiter of the Year, Appetite for Excellence, Louise Tamayo, Sydney, waiter

Respect and Monsieur Roux

It was a month ago today that I met Michel Roux. Actually, that’s not quite true. I’d snapped a picture of him at the Cuisine NOW Gala Dinner on the previous Sunday. And, I’d eaten his course from the seven courses by seven chefs that cooked at that dinner. Why has it taken me a whole month to write this post you ask? In truth, I’ve written the post and re-written it and re-written it. How can I do justice to what was one of the most amazing experiences of my life (and I’m not just talking about the food …)

Filed under: a chat with ..., eating out, festivals, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, eggs, French, Michel Roux (snr), Michelin, Sydney

The chef, her camera and her blog

What did a visiting Provençal chef and a Sydney food writer talk about when they first met? Shoes of course!

And, it wasn’t just because we are both women. When I first met Chef Reine Sammut, it was not in a kitchen, but in a nightclub. She was wearing a great big grin and the sunny disposition for which she is renowned. She was also happily bending down … eyes behind her camera … taking photos of the floor …

It actually took a couple of meetings with Chef Reine Sammut to find out the whole story.

At 55, Reine has enormous energy and not only has a Michelin star restaurant gastronimique, a bistro and a guesthouse, but she is also a blogger. The night after the Sydney Cuisine NOW Gala dinner, I went home to bed. Reine, on the other hand, wrote her blog post.

Just before we met in Sydney, we’d already met on the Internet. Reine found this Inside Cuisine site, and my earlier post, on the Cuisine NOW festival (to which she was an invited guest chef). Unbeknownst to me, she posted this site on her twitter stream. I then found her, and, I read her blog.

I digress. Back to the shoes.

The next night, at the reception for the Gala Dinner, I discovered that Reine was fascinated by the Sydney disposition to wear thongs (flip flops) as footwear in the CBD, and about the ability of the Sydney woman to transform her footwear for the night. She even sent me over to ask Gala Dinner guest Nadine Brodie (previously unknown to both of us) if I could take a photo of her shoes (pictured below).

And, at Reine’s masterclass the hunt for shoes continued …

  

Shoes by Australian designer Leona Edmiston were captured (below) on the feet of Alexandra Lambert at the masterclass and lunch.

Me, well I was wearing Michael Kors‘ platform cork wedges … If you want to know about the food, rather than about the shoes, you can visit:

Cuisine NOW website for recipes and photos of the festival events or

Reine Sammut’s website Hôtel Auberge de Charme et Luxe en Luberon Provence

Filed under: a chat with ..., festivals, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, French, Reine Sammut, Sydney

a chat with Nicolas Le Bec

Do you ever wake up in the morning and want to just pinch your cheek? I knew I’d had one fantastic day on Friday when I was still pinching my cheek at the end of the day.  On Friday, I went behind the scenes of Cuisine NOW at Bilson’s restaurant Sydney, and met with visiting French Chef Nicolas Le Bec. The garnish on the plate was having a chance to talk with the bow-tied hero of Australian cuisine, the talented, creative and innovative Chef Tony Bilson.

It was so exciting to have spent time with Chef Le Bec before this Monday’s ‘Chef’s in the City’ masterclass and lunch. Nicolas Le Bec will also be Guest Chef at Bilson’s Restaurant, Radisson Plaza Hotel, Sydney from 12th to 16th January and will cook one of the seven courses at the Gala Dinner with all the seven chefs: Nicolas Le Bec, Michel Roux (Snr), Reine Sammut, Tony Bilson, Tetsuya Wakuda, Cheong Liew, Philippe Michel (and with canapes by Sean Connelly).

Bilson invited Le Bec to the festival to represent the face of the future in France. Bilson thinks its interesting to see those changes.

I’d googled Le Bec before the meeting and found a description of him as“The Magic Spoon”. He laughed when I told him. He hadn’t heard that before (and demonstrated ‘air’ whisking to Tony Bilson). What a moment!

Le Bec doesn’t use the word fusion when referring to cuisine. “The word fusion is difficult because there are many roots that are incorporated” in his cuisine. His greatest influence is travelling and he incorporates the influences into his cookery, but it’s definitely not fusion he says. His cooking concentrates on the quality of the produce, but not just regional. He said that molecular gastronomy in the hands of great chefs like Ferran Adria can be great art, but not in the hands of lesser chefs.

And what would he choose for his last meal? Really good quality beef and potatoes.

How did I find Nicolas? Quiet, polite, calm, perhaps a little bit shy, or was that a little bit jetlagged. It was a great privilege to be invited to Bilson’s restaurant as Nicolas arrived in Australia and, after they made an airport run to pick up his Sous Chef, started preparations for the Cuisine NOW festival dinners. His affinity with the kitchen was apparent. His eyes lit up and his step lightened as he donned his chef’s jacket and entered his workplace, the kitchen.

 

Spending time at the restaurant, also gave me more insight into Chef Tony Bilson’s profound wealth of knowledge and only deepened my respect and admiration for him. It’s just one more sleep until the first Cuisine NOW event, and the masterclass with Chef Nicolas Le Bec. I wonder what tomorrow has in store …

Filed under: a chat with ..., festivals, Australia, chef, Cuisine NOW, French, Nicolas le Bec, Sydney, Tony Bilson

A chat with Chef Mitch Orr

Our culinary future is in good hands. My thanks to Chef Mitch Orr for an honest glimpse into his thoughts on cookery and life.

How did you feel Mitch when you were announced The Josephine Pignolet Best Young Chef at the SMH Good Food Guide awards recently?

Hearing my name announced was pretty emotional. To hear Leo Schofield talk about the history of the award and then hear Damien Pignolet describe the attributes he and the panel or judges saw in me was a very humbling and amazing experience. It was the biggest moment of my career and probably of my life.

Mitch, can you remember the first time you cooked, was it at home or professionally?

I’m quite sure the first time I cooked would of been at home helping mum.

What got you interested in cooking professionally?

I don’t think I ever really thought about cooking professionally, I was just lucky enough to know it was what I wanted to do. After taking food technology and hospitality in high school basically so I could have an extra meal a few days of the week and cooking at home, so I could try different things to the usual meals mum would make (she hates cooking) cooking professionally just seemed like the logical path. Work placement and part time work confirmed that.

What do you like to cook at home?

I actually don’t cook at home that often as my apartment kitchen isn’t crash hot, and I love eating out when I have the chance. So other than my late night staple of steamed rice, lap chong (dried Chinese sausage) and fried eggs, I enjoy making risottos and pasta as they as simple and full of flavour. You can always create a tasty risotto or pasta from the basic stores in your pantry.

What are the major influences in your culinary style?

The major influences on my culinary styles are polar opposites. I love Italian flavours and the history that goes with those classic dishes and flavour combinations, but growing and learning professionally at a time when cuisine is evolving at such a rapid rate I can’t help but be interested in these advancements. I love revisiting classic dishes and flavour profiles and presenting them in new and different ways. As I’m not bound by, but still respect, the traditions and values of Italian cuisine it’s always fun to create new dishes that aren’t necessarily “Italian” but still contain those amazing flavours.

Who are you cookery mentors?

I probably have three main mentors, Thomas Johns, Giovanni Pilu and Martin Benn. Thomas really helped spark my interest in new techniques and thinking outside the box. Giovanni has taught me a lot about respecting produce and traditions and taking pride in them, and Martin has really made me want to refine my skills as a chef as well as teaching me about subtle balances in dishes and staying on top of the curve with what’s happening in food around the world.

Daniel Puskas also inspires and pushes me and is always a good sounding board to talk about food with; he is a true friend but I think he’s too young to be a mentor.

(Outside of cooking) what’s fun for you?

Outside of cooking I love sports, though I don’t get much time to play (golf, basketball, netball, soccer), music and busting some moves, keeping active and fit, sneakers, as well as reading about food and of course being on the other side of the kitchen and eating out.

Does technology play a part in your life: online, the Internet, twitter, music, pics – and – how does that relate to your food life?

Technology is a major part of my life, probably too much so sometimes. The Internet is an amazing resource and a great way to stay connected to what’s going on in the world of food and with fellow chefs.

Of course twitter plays a part!! I’ve been on twitter for about 8 months or so I think. Though my followers almost doubled when I won the award hahahahah

Music is a big part of my life, everyday I’m listening to something, on the way to and from work, on my days off etc etc.

They all play a role in that they educate, motivate and inspire me. I love seeing and reading about what other creative and like-minded people are achieving and experiences. It pushes me to better myself.

What does the future hold Mitch; what would you like for your future in cooking?

I hope the future holds some amazing things for me. Guys like Puskas, Phil Wood (Rockpool), Dan Hong (Lotus) and Jimmy Parry are all doing some awesome things and have seen and experienced some wicked stuff around the world. So these guys leave big shoes to fill, they and all the previous winners are the reason the award has so much prestige. So hopefully I can live up to the standards they have set.

I’m really looking forward to travelling and staying in the States and Italy next year. That’s sure to be an amazing experience and hopefully I learn a lot and get to bring it back and create something unique in the Sydney dining scene.

I’d love my own place one day. I can see all the pieces to the puzzle. It’s just a matter of fitting them together.

Filed under: a chat with ..., Australia, awards, chef, interview, Italian, Mitch Orr, Sydney

A chat with Chef Ron O’Bryan

I really like Chef Ron O’Bryan’s attitude to food. After he sent me a Twitter message to say food is all about making people happy I just knew I had to interview him … and here it is …

Ron, can you recollect your first taste memory?

It would probably be mashed pumpkin made by my Grandmother. Either that or her golden syrup pudding.

Looking back, what do you think first got you interested in cookery?

I’ve always had a fascination with food and cooking. I grew up in the country, a fair bit of my childhood was spent on a farm so seeing where food comes from from an early age set the wheels in motion so to speak. Couple that with a mother who can’t cook and a stint at boarding school, so I guess I figured there had to be more to food.

What inspirations did you get from your childhood?

Obviously growing up on the farm, growing our own food set me up with a very healthy respect for produce and its origins, seeing how long it took for things to grow and the realization that something had to die in order for us to eat meat. Food didn’t just happen. Also my grandmother’s food. The cliché of cooking at my Grandma’s apron strings could apply I guess. I loved her food more than anything. It’s still a very large part of what I cook at home.

Do you have a favourite dish Ron and what would be your last meal if you could choose it?

My favourite dish on the menu at Church St Enoteca is still the three cheese tortellini with sage butter, raisins, pine nuts and 30 year-old balsamic. It’s been on since the day I started and has taken on an almost a cult following. It’s the one the few things that I cook that I can never get sick of. Outside of work though, I like anything slow cooked. Give me an ox cheek or a proper Sicilian lasagne and I’m a happy man. That being said, I do love a good steak too.

My last meal? It would have to be a Degustation featuring Paul Wilson’s sticky pork salad, Peter Gilmore’s pig belly with silken tofu, Jeremy Strode’s boudin blanc with apples and sherry (from his Pomme days), Geoff Lindsay’s red duck curry, a steak from Rockpool Bar & Grill (in Melbourne of course), Justin North’s yoghurt pannacotta with coriander jelly, pain d’epice and pineapple granita, Matt Moran’s chocolate delice, finished with a chocolate soufflé made by Phillipa Sibley. Served at either Quay or Aria.

Who have been your mentors in your professional cooking career?

Probably one of my biggest influences to this day is Glen Tobias from the days when I worked for him at his 2 Hatter Onions in Prahran. He was one of the best cooks I’ve ever worked with. And a chef’s chef too. It was all about what went on the plate. Nothing but the best. The extra virgin olive oil we used was $100 a litre. And that was 1998! That being said, nearly every chef I’ve worked for has had a big influence on my cooking, as well as guys like Greg Brown, Jeremy Strode, Donovan Cooke, Marco Pierre White, the Roux Brothers and all the rest whose food I love to eat or have admired from afar.

How do you approach food and cooking with the changes of the seasons?

The seasons dictate nearly everything I do. I try for light, crisp food in summer, earthy food in autumn, rich, nourishing food in winter and vegetal, fun food in spring. My menus are always evolving. I change dishes often. As soon as something comes into season it goes on. Things that last only a few weeks are the best. They make a brief appearance on the menu, get people interested and then they’re gone. The number of people that ask to be contacted as soon as a particular item becomes available is amazing. For me, it’s the best way to cook. I don’t believe in year-round ingredients. For example, I’ll only use tomatoes in the first three months of the year, and then I try to only use heirloom varieties. Tomatoes that taste like tomatoes. Then in late March I get all my tomatoes delivered to make sugo. We buy as many good tomatoes as we can get our hands on, make the sugo for the year and when we run out, we run out. When it’s a good year for tomatoes, that’s not a problem, but when you have a season like the one we’ve just had, we only managed to find about 600kg of good quality tomatoes. The sugo’s gone for this year already. But that’s part of the deal.

Do you have any advice to home cooks about sourcing produce?

Shop around. Buy a little from here and a little from there. Ask them questions. Look at their prices. The cheapest won’t necessarily be the best, but neither will the dearest! If you find a regular butcher, fishmonger, etc, give them feedback. Tell them what you want to do with what you’re buying and tell them what you thought of it, politely. If it was no good, tell them why you thought it was. You need to build up a relationship with them. The more you interact with your suppliers the better the produce you should have access to. Then, if you find they’re taking you for granted, shop somewhere else for a while. That will have them bending over backwards to get your custom back. Or at least it should. If it doesn’t they probably weren’t that good to begin with.

What currently is your greatest inspiration for cooking?

Probably produce. We are so lucky in this country to have access to an amazing array of foodstuffs. Sure we can’t get fresh foie gras and the like, and food is expensive here, but our standard of living is so high, you are always going to pay a little more to buy Australian. But it’s well worth it. I’m experimenting a lot with texture at the moment too. I’m a very textural person. Flavour is only one element of the dish. Texture, to me anyway, is far more important. The food I’m eating may have the most amazing flavour, but if the texture is wrong, I won’t be able to finish it.

you can follow Ron O’Bryan on Twitterwww.twitter.com/ronobryan or try his Zampone: Pig’s Trotters recipe on the current menu

Filed under: a chat with ..., Australia, chef, interview, Melbourne, restaurant, Ron O'Bryan