For a champagne lover like myself, there are few greater pleasures than tasting 6 Dom Pérignon vintages in one night. The hero of the evening was the release of the 2002 Dom Pérignon, considered one of the best vintages of this extraordinary wine for the last 100 years. Add to that the superb tasting menu designed by Chef Christine Manfield to showcase the luxurious qualities of the Dom Pérignon range and the evening at Universal restaurant Sydney was as close to heaven as you get.
This slice of heaven started on arrival when we were greeted by our first taste of the 2002, blind. Tight and crisp, yet complex and creamy, at the front of the palate, the vintage, while still young, then opened up surprisingly into a tinge of unami and citrus pith at the back. It’s amazing how the characteristics change when you can actually see the wine. Our second glass was served traditionally at the table, and the mouth felt a little more fruit and yeast when the eyes could see. The 2002 was also served with the second course and the 2000 Dom Pérignon for comparison.
Universal Restaurant
Tuesday 14th September, 2010
freshwater marron sashimi, finger lime and green chilli salsa
2002 Dom Pérignon
2002 harvest: The spring was warm and dry, with no significant frost and near perfect flowering. The summer was marked by long sunny periods, interspersed with regular cloudy and rainy spells. The unexpectedly perfect weather just before the harvest compensate for the heavy rains of late August and early September. The vines were in good health, and the deehydration of the grape berries helped them reach new heights of ripeness. The harvest began between September 12 and 28.
On the nose: The first hints of fresh almond and harvest aromas immediately open up into preserved lemon and dried fruits, the whole rounded off by darker smoky and toasted qualities.
On the palate: The presence of the wine on the palate is immediately captivating. Paradoxically concentrated yet creamy, it is energetic and warm in the mouth, focusing on the fruit, then gradually taking on more profound bass notes. The whole holds its note perfectly, intensively, with just a subtle, elegant hint of underlying bitterness.
salted aoraki salmon, chicken crackling, palm heart, pomelo and roasted cashew salad
2000 Dom Pérignon and 2002 Dom Pérignon
2000 harvest: After a very dry Spring, the key problem in 2000 was the hail (in June and mainly in July), which affected, to varying degrees, nearly half of the region, and completely destroyed about a tenth of it. Thereafter everything was fine, and a warm August helped to redress the qualitative balance, and there was sunshine throughout the harvest, most of which was brought in under clear skies, finishing by the 18th September.
On the nose: Fresh, crystalline, and sharp, the first nose unveils an unusual dimension, an aquatic vegetal world with secret touches of white pepper and gardenia. The wine then reveals airy, gentle richness before exhaling peaty scents.
On the palate: The attack bursts forth, and matures into a sensual fullness that winds around itself, like a tendril of foliage. Notes of aniseed and dried ginger linger on the skin of fruit (pear and mango), more textured than ripe. The finish gradually unfurls and then settles smooth, mellow and all encompassing. An indeinable je ne sais quoi, never upsetting the integrity of the wine, has worked its charm.
rare roasted squab, black truffle morel mushrooms
1998 Dom Pérignon Rosé
1998 harvest: The year saw two unusual and contrasting weather-related events: the severe burning of the grapes caused by record temperatures in August followed by exceptionally high rainfall in the first half of September. Patience regarding the start of the harvest was rewarded by the period of miraculously good weather that followed. The grapes were healthy and especially well-ripened.
On the nose: Initial floral and perfumed notes blossom rapidly, leading to armoas of orange peel and dried fruits which bring to mind the scent of ripe harvests and woody spices.
On the palate: The wine reveals a fullness of texture couple with a remarkably balanced structure that is both sophisticated and clear-cut. This complex richness of aromas, radiating warmth, creates a vibrant finish underlined with the merest hint of astringency.
sweet grilled eel, hiramasa kingfish tartare, wasabi seawood salad, sesame sushi rice
Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1993
1993 harvest: A vintage characterised by its precocity. The early bud-break and a warm and stormy spring lead to rapid and full flowering in the first fortnight of June. Despite very average temperatures, the summer was remarkable both for its amount of sunshine and the drought which lasted until the harvest began (10 September).
On the nose: The first hints of dried herbs rapidly give way to candied grapefrit and cinnamon. This is rounded off with notes of biscuit and raisin.
On the palate: The sensations follow one after another closely, with rhythm, precision and intensity. The initial density evolves into a creamy amplitude. Its finess draws out and takes off on a sappy note.
goats curd brioche, toasted hazelnuts, morcilla and golden raisins
Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1983
1983 harvest: After a particularly damp spring, flowering began in ideal conditions. The summer weather was hot and a few days of hard rain near the date of harvesting (26 September) did not jeopardize the excellent quality of the grape must.
On the nose: Classic, mature and distinct. With initial notes of toast and particularly hazelnut. It evolves into nuances of brioche, honey and spices.
On the palate: The attack is remarkable, clear cut, even forthright. There is a strong impression of solidity and intensity on the palate. This is followed by a powerful aromatic finish, presenting a perfect balance between smoothness and acidity.
roasted suckling pig, honey apple terrine, spiced blood orange
Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1976
1976 harvest: The weather was extraordinarily dry, with climatic conditions oscillating from one extreme to the other during the year. Flowering was early and the extreme hot summer reduced to 84 days the traditional 100-day period between flowering and harvesting. The harvest started on 1 September. The exceptional maturity of the grapes produced wines of outstanding quality.
On the nose: The bouquet is powerful and full of warmth. Sweet honeysuckle notes rapidly lead to flavours of ripe mirabelle plums and raisins as well as complex roasted aromas.
On the palate: A lush opulence on the palate is combined with a strong smooth balance blending fullness and depth. The extraordinary persistence seems to be everlasting, and is lifted with just a slight hint of bitterness (blood orange).
Disgorged: 2004
star anise caramelised pineapple, ginger sago cream, marshmallow, pineapple sorbet
2002 Dom Pérignon
This was a truly amazing menu. I was intrigued by the use of chilli (albeit ever so lightly) to marry with champagne. And, while each of the dishes were also in their own right truly amazing, I think my first taste of the evening of the freshwater marron sashimi was one of my highlights. Christine’s versatility in what she would say with a ‘wink’ is a truly ‘universal’ menu is not to be under-rated. Chicken crackling atop the second course was a labour of love in preparation to painstakingly skin the feet of the chicken. The simplicity in her perfectly rare roasted squab was only surpassed by one of the best desserts in town, layer on layer of flavour and texture, white on white.
There was much discussion amongst the small group at the end of the evening, as to which champagne we had each most enjoyed. The 2000 was superbly creamy and was a popular choice. The young ones at the table preferred the Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1983 (the year between the years of their birth). While I enjoyed each vintage for its own characteristics I had a leaning to the Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1976 (which had retained more bead than the ’83), the 1998 Rosé and the 2000. The newly released, 2002 Dom Pérignon is already (though still young) a truly amazing champagne, and I’ll look forward to another (and another) tipple as it matures.
Universal Restaurant
Republic 2 Courtyard Palmer Street
Between Burton and Liverpool,
Darlinghurst NSW 2010
+61 (0)2 9331 0709
Filed under: eating out, festivals, Champagne, chef, Christine Manfield, Dom Perignon, wine
Becca, I just read this review and it’s brillaint – passionate and informative – loved it xx